How to Give a Dog the Heimlich Maneuver

Choking is one of the scariest emergencies a pet parent can face because it can turn serious in seconds. The good news is that you can learn what to look for and what to do, calmly and step by step. As a veterinary assistant, I always tell families the same thing: act quickly, but do not panic. Your goal is to get air moving again and get to a veterinarian right after.

First, confirm it is choking

Not every cough is a choke. Dogs cough from kennel cough, collapsing trachea, allergies, heart disease, and even excitement. The Heimlich is for a true airway obstruction.

Signs your dog may be choking

• Pawing at the mouth repeatedly
• Sudden gagging, retching, or harsh coughing that does not produce anything
• Noisy breathing or high-pitched wheezing
• Difficulty inhaling, panicked look, wide eyes
• Blue or gray gums or tongue (late and dangerous sign)
• Collapsing or becoming weak

If your dog is coughing forcefully and still getting air, let them keep coughing while you prepare to help. If they cannot breathe well, you need to act.

Safety check: protect your hands

A choking dog may bite, even if they are normally gentle. If you have a second person with you, have them call an emergency vet while you help.

Quick steps before thrusts

1. Open the mouth and look if your dog will allow it.
2. If you can clearly see an object near the front of the mouth, try to remove it with your fingers.
3. Do not blindly sweep with your fingers. This can push the object deeper.

Try back blows first

Many standard pet first aid protocols recommend trying back blows before abdominal thrusts. They can dislodge an object and are often less aggressive.

1. Position your dog safely. If possible, keep them standing. For small dogs, hold them securely against your body or place them across your lap.
2. Aim between the shoulder blades.
3. Deliver 5 firm blows with the heel of your hand between the shoulder blades.
4. Check the mouth. Remove the object only if you can see it clearly.
5. If your dog is still struggling to breathe, move to abdominal thrusts.

Heimlich for standing dogs

This works well for many medium and large dogs who are standing. If your dog is sitting, you can do the same technique from behind.

1. Position yourself behind your dog, with your dog facing away from you.
2. Wrap your arms around the abdomen, just behind the ribcage.
3. Make a fist and place the thumb side of your fist on the soft area just behind the ribs on the midline.
4. Grasp your fist with your other hand.
5. Give quick, firm thrusts inward and upward (toward the spine and slightly toward the dog’s head), like a “J” motion.
6. After 3 to 5 thrusts, check the mouth again. Remove the object if you can see it.
7. Repeat as needed until your dog can breathe or you are on the way to emergency care.

Tip: The thrusts should be decisive, but not reckless. Think “firm enough to move the abdomen inward,” not “as hard as possible.”

Heimlich for small dogs

Small dogs are easier to lift and position, and you must be gentler because their ribs and internal organs are more delicate.

1. Hold your small dog securely. Many people find it easiest to hold the dog with their back against your chest or across your lap, with the head slightly lower than the body if you can do so safely. If your dog is wiggly, do not risk dropping them.
2. Place your hand under the ribcage and locate the soft area just behind the ribs.
3. Using two or three fingers (or a gentle fist if needed), give quick inward and upward thrusts.
4. After 3 to 5 thrusts, check the mouth and remove the object if visible.

If you cannot hold your small dog securely, place them on a firm surface or your lap and do the same thrust motion with careful pressure.

If your dog is lying down

If your dog collapses or cannot stand:

1. Lay your dog on their side on a firm surface.
2. Place one hand on top of the other and position them on the soft area just behind the ribcage.
3. Give abdominal compressions (not CPR chest compressions) by pushing inward and slightly upward with quick motions, 3 to 5 times.
4. Check the mouth and repeat as needed.

Body shape note: Technique can vary by breed and build. Some deep-chested or barrel-chested dogs may respond better to adjustments your veterinarian or a certified pet first aid instructor can teach. If you can, take a pet first aid and CPR course so you have hands-on practice before an emergency.

If your dog is unresponsive

If your dog becomes unconscious or is not breathing normally, this is a true life-threatening emergency.

• Call an emergency veterinarian right away (or have someone else call).
• Start pet CPR and rescue breathing if you are trained, and continue while someone transports you to the nearest emergency clinic.
• If you are not trained, ask the clinic to talk you through what to do while you head in.

Even brief oxygen loss can be dangerous, so do not delay getting professional help.

After the object comes out

Even if your dog seems “fine,” you should still see a veterinarian as soon as you can. Choking episodes can cause irritation, swelling, aspiration (inhaling saliva or food into the lungs), or hidden injuries to the throat.

Go to the vet urgently if you notice

• Ongoing coughing, gagging, or noisy breathing
• Drooling, trouble swallowing, or repeated lip licking
• Fatigue, weakness, or pale or blue gums
• Vomiting or signs of distress

Do not

• Do not offer food or water right after a choking episode
• Do not keep “fishing” in the mouth if you cannot see the object
• Do not wait at home if breathing seems off or gums look pale or blue

When in doubt, treat a choking incident like a needs-to-be-seen event. It is much better to be reassured than to miss a complication.

Common choking hazards

Prevention is your best friend. Many choking emergencies are linked to high-risk chew items or toys that are the wrong size.

Common high-risk items

• Chunks of rawhide or tightly compressed chews that soften and break into large pieces
• Bones that splinter (cooked bones are especially risky)
• Small balls or toys that can lodge in the throat
• Corncobs, fruit pits, and large pieces of meat
• Sticks and broken plastic toy parts

Safer habits

• Choose toys sized so your dog cannot fit them fully in their mouth
• Supervise chewing, especially with “high-value” treats
• Replace damaged toys promptly
• Slow down fast eaters with a slow feeder bowl or food puzzle
• Cut chewy foods into appropriate bite-sized pieces

Quick reminder

If you are reading this now, take 60 seconds to picture the steps so your brain has a pathway if you ever need it.

• Look for a visible object and remove it only if you can see it.
• Back blows: 5 firm blows between the shoulder blades.
• Thrust: behind the ribs, inward and upward, 3 to 5 times.
• Check the mouth again.
• Repeat if needed.
• Vet visit afterward, even if your dog improves.

For long-term prevention, share your dog’s breed, size, and favorite chews or toys in the comments so other pet parents can learn what works in real homes.